How to properly maintain and clean your sauna

August 7th, 2025

Maintaining your sauna is essential to its longevity, safety and the quality of your experience. While many guides focus on using the sauna, this practical and comprehensive guide will focus on maintenance - from cleaning the wooden surfaces and preventing mold to checking the heaters and making sure everything works safely. Whether you have a traditional Finnish wood-fired or electric sauna (or even an infrared model), these maintenance tips apply. We've put together information to help sauna owners across Europe, from the cold north to the warm south, keep their saunas in top condition.

After each use: quick cleaning and drying

After each session, a quick wipe of the seats and walls removes sweat and moisture, preventing stains and mold.

Taking a little care every time you use the sauna can significantly reduce long-term maintenance. Start by using towels on the seats and floor during your sauna session - this absorbs sweat and protects the wood from stains[1][2]. When you've finished, clean the seats, backrests and walls with a damp cloth or a soft brush (keep one in the sauna for this purpose). Scrubbing all surfaces with warm water for 30 to 60 seconds is enough to remove sweat and dirt, and doing so will always keep the wood looking great for years to come[3].

Next, dry the sauna. Leave the door (and all ventilation openings) open for some time after use to allow moisture to escape[4][5]. If you have slatted carpets, lift them up so that the air can circulate underneath[6]. The residual heat in the stones and wood will help to dry out the interior completely. In a wood-fired sauna, you can let the fire go out with the door ajar; in an electric sauna, you can leave the heater on for a few more minutes (or simply rely on the residual heat) to ensure that everything dries out. Never leave wet towels or rugs in the sauna - hang them up to dry elsewhere to avoid mold[7]. These simple habits after use - wiping down surfaces, removing wet fabrics and airing out the room - go a long way to preventing mold and damage.

Routine cleaning and wood care

Even with good habits after use, it will be necessary to carry out routine cleaning based on the frequency of use of the sauna. For a sauna that is used regularly (several times a week), monthly cleaning is advisable[8]. For less frequent use, aim for at least one deep clean once or twice a year[9], with a light clean in between as necessary.

Cleaning wooden surfaces: When it's time for a thorough clean, always start with the sauna cooled down and switched off (never try to clean it while it's hot)[10]. Remove all accessories (buckets, thermometers, etc.) and, if possible, the removable sections of the bench. Vacuum or sweep the floor and between the seat boards to collect dust, dirt and hair[11]. Use a soft brush to dust the walls and even the ceiling - over time, dirt can build up on all surfaces[11].

To wash the wood, use warm water with a mild cleaning product. Ideally, choose a sauna-specific cleaner or a mild, non-toxic detergent[12][13]. Traditional Finnish advice recommends products such as Supi Saunapesu (a cleaning agent for saunas) or a simple solution of water and vinegar, as normal household cleaners may be too weak or contain ingredients unsuitable for sauna wood[13]. Avoid harsh chemicals or disinfectants on sauna wood; in particular, don't use chlorine bleach or any chlorinated cleaning product regularly. Chlorine can penetrate the wood and subsequently release toxic fumes when the sauna is heated[14]. (Exception: small amounts of diluted bleach can be used to treat mold stains - more on this later). Also avoid painting, varnishing or sealing the interior wood: sauna wood is left untreated so that it can breathe and withstand the heat and humidity; paints or varnishes block the pores, which can overheat the surface and even release odors or fumes when heated[15]. The only places you can apply a wood finish are high-wear spots, such as floorboards or door handles, where a polyurethane or sealant can make cleaning easier[16] - but for all other surfaces, keep the wood's natural finish.

When scrubbing wooden benches or walls, use a soft brush or sponge and clean along the grain of the wood to avoid scratches[17]. It is often recommended to wash from the bottom up on vertical surfaces - this helps to avoid dirt drip marks on areas that have already been cleaned[18]. After gently scrubbing all surfaces with the cleaning solution, rinse the wood with clean water (cold water helps to close the wood's pores after cleaning)[19]. If your sauna has a floor drain, remember to wash and clean it during this process so that it doesn't become clogged with debris[20]. After washing, ventilate and dry the sauna well: leave the door open and, if it's an electric sauna, you can turn the heater on low for 15 to 30 minutes to help with the drying[21]. In a wooden sauna, you can light a small fire or simply ensure good air circulation on a hot day with low humidity. The important thing is to ensure that all the moisture evaporates.

Stubborn stains and wood renovation: Over time, wooden benches can develop dark stains due to oils or simply normal wear and tear. Light sanding is an excellent way to renew the wood of the sauna. Use a fine-grit sandpaper to sand stained or rough areas (hand sanding is usually sufficient). This removes a very thin layer of wood, taking the stains with it and revealing the new wood underneath. Sauna experts suggest lightly sanding the benches about once a year to keep them smooth and clear[22]. After sanding, remember to sweep or vacuum up all the dust[23]. You can leave the sanded wood as it is or apply a special oil or preservative for sauna wood. In Finland, it is common to treat clean sauna wood with products such as paraffin oil or sauna wax, which are designed for sauna temperatures[24][25]. These breathable wood preservatives penetrate the wood without sealing it, adding a moisture and dirt repellent layer that makes future cleaning easier[26][25 ]. For example, a sauna wood wax can be applied to wall and ceiling panels to protect against moisture and mold (they often contain mild fungicides), and a separate seat oil (such as Supi Laudesuoja from Tikkurila) can be used on seats to repel dirt[25]. Always apply these oils or waxes in a thin, even layer along the shaft and wipe off any excess. Never use normal paints or polyurethane varnishes on sauna walls or benches[25] - if you want to treat the wood, use sauna-specific products.

By regularly cleaning and caring for the wood, you will prevent deterioration. Remember that sauna wood ages naturally: with time and heat, it may darken slightly or fine cracks may appear due to extreme temperature changes[27]. This is normal and does not pose a structural problem, especially if you prevent the wood from drying out excessively (hence the advantage of sauna oils) and avoid spilling water on the walls or ceiling. Ultimately, well-maintained wood not only lasts longer, it also remains hygienic and odor-freeThe sauna is a great way to improve every session.

Prevent mold and odors

Saunas are humid environments, so without proper care they can develop mold, mildew or unpleasant odors. Prevention is much easier than cleaning, so adopt strategies to keep your sauna clean and dry.

Ventilation is key: Make sure your sauna has adequate airflow. Normally, a sauna should have an air inlet opening near the floor (often below the heater) and an air outlet opening higher up, usually on the opposite wall, near the ceiling[28]. These openings promote a slight exchange of air, even when the sauna is in use and, more importantly, help to dry the sauna after use. Make sure the vents are unobstructed and clean - check them periodically for accumulations of dust or dirt and clean them if necessary[29]. For outdoor saunas or sauna rooms that tend to get humid, consider leaving the vent open after the session or even using a small fan to circulate the air after using the sauna[29]. Good ventilation and a drying period between uses will prevent mold from growing on wooden surfaces[30].

Dry everything thoroughly: as mentioned above, after each use of the sauna, you should dry the room by leaving the door open and/or turning on the heater for a few minutes. The aim is to avoid residual humidity. Wipe up any puddles (for example, if water splashes on the floor) and make sure the benches are dry. It's good practice to lift the removable mats or boards so that the floor can air dry from all sides[6]. Many sauna owners in Finland even wipe off excess water and then heat the sauna for a few minutes with the door closed and the ventilation open, to "bake" and dry out. Never store wet items in the sauna: in addition to attracting mold, a wet towel in a closed, hot environment can breed bacteria and cause a bad smell. (And as a safety note, don't use the sauna as a clothes dryer - hanging wet clothes in a sauna is a fire hazard if someone accidentally turns it on[31].)

Regular mold checks: Inspect the sauna from time to time, especially in hidden corners. Common places to find the first signs of mold or mildew are under the seats, in the corners or around the floorboards, where water may linger or ventilation is weaker[30]. If you find dark stains or a musty smell, treat immediately. For light mold, a solution of warm water with neutral detergent or vinegar can work - scrub the affected wood with a soft brush, rinse and dry. For more intense mold or algae, a stronger method may be needed. A traditional remedy is a diluted bleach solution (for example, ~1/4 cup of bleach in a gallon of water) applied carefully to the moldy area[32]. Scrub the area with this solution, rinse thoroughly with clean water and then dry the sauna completely (turn it on at full power with the vents open for a while) to ensure that no bleach is trapped in the wood[32]. Always use bleach sparingly and with good ventilation, as you don't want the smell of chlorine to linger. Alternatively, there are commercial sauna cleaners with fungicidal ingredients that are safe for wood - these can be used as directed to eliminate mold. After cleaning off the mold, it is advisable to lightly sand the area once it is dry (mold can leave stains) and then treat the wood with a sauna wood oil or wax that contains mold inhibitors[25]. 25] This will help prevent it from reappearing.

To keep your sauna smelling fresh, remember the basics: shower before the sauna (less dirt and sweat in the sauna means less odor)[33], use clean towels to sit on and air out the sauna after each use. Occasionally, you can clean the surfaces with a solution of baking soda and water or leave a dish of baking soda in the sauna when it's not in use - baking soda can absorb odors. Some sauna owners also heat the sauna and then ventilate it as a way of "restarting" the smell if it is stagnant (the heat can drive the odors out of the wood and then the fresh air eliminates them). The good news is that a dry sauna is a hostile environment for mold. In fact, frequent use of the sauna can help keep it mold-free - the high heat dries the wood regularly, preventing mold from taking hold[34]. Therefore, consistent use combined with diligent drying is a natural repellent against mold.

Maintenance of the sauna heater and stones

The heater is the heart of your sauna, especially in traditional Finnish saunas. Whether you have an electric heater with sauna stones or a wood-burning stove, giving it a little attention will ensure safety and optimum performance.

General safety first: Always turn off the power to an electric heater before servicing and let it cool down. In the case of wood-burning stoves, make sure the fire is out and everything is cool before handling ashes or stones.

Electric sauna heaters: They usually require little maintenance apart from cleaning and caring for the stones. From time to time (approximately once a month in the case of heavy use, or at least a few times a year), vacuum or wipe down the heater to remove lint, dust or debris that may have fallen on it[35]. Pay special attention to the areas around the heating elements and on the underside of the heater, where dust can accumulate. Make sure the heater's air intakes are unobstructed - blockages can cause overheating. It's also a good idea to check the electrical connections (if you're qualified to do so or ask an electrician during annual maintenance) and test the controls and thermostat periodically to ensure that the temperature sensors and timers are working properly[36]. Modern electric heaters are quite robust, but any sign of malfunction - such as not reaching the set temperature, tripped circuit breakers or strange smells - should be inspected immediately by a professional.

Wood-burning sauna stoves: These require some additional maintenance due to combustion. Empty the ashtray and furnace regularly - preferably after each use (when the ashes are completely cold) or at least after a few sessions. A layer of ash that builds up can absorb moisture and cause corrosion in the stove, and excess ash can block the airflow for the next stove. Use a metal ash shovel and a bucket to remove the ash safely. Also, check the inside of the stove and the chimney for soot or creosote build-up. Especially if you burn resinous wood or use the sauna frequently, soot can build up in the flue. Excess creosote is a fire hazard. It is recommended to inspect and clean the chimney at least once a year (more if you notice a lot of build-up) - you can use a chimney brush or hire a professional chimney sweep. Make sure the chimney cap is in place to prevent rainwater from entering and that the spark screens are not clogged. While you're at it, inspect the stove's door and seals: if your wood-burning stove has a glass door, keep it clean (soot can be removed with a damp newspaper or a special glass cleaner when it's cold); if it has a rubber seal around the door, make sure it's intact so that the stove draws in air properly. Examine the metal body for signs of rust or cracks; heat-resistant paint can touch up external rust stains to prevent further corrosion. Also make sure that the heat shields (if any) around the stove are securely fixed and have the appropriate distance from the walls - this is more a matter of installation, but worth checking over time for safety.

Sauna stones (for electric and wood-burning stoves): the stones in the heater are essential for retaining and dispersing the heat evenly. Over time, these sauna stones can crack, disintegrate or become dusty due to the heat. It is important to check their condition at least once a year[37]. Signs of problems include: weaker steam production (löyly), longer heating times or finding sand/grains at the base of the heater - this indicates that the stones are disintegrating[38]. To inspect them, first turn off and let the heater cool down. Then remove the stones to a bucket and look for any that are cracked, crumbling or significantly smaller than they used to be. Discard the damaged stones and also vacuum up any stone dust inside the heater casing[39]. This is vital because, in electric heaters, disintegrated stone fragments can block the airflow of the heating element, leading to the elements overheating[40]. In fact, using a heater with very disintegrated stones can be a fire hazard or can cause the heater elements to burn out[41]. In wood-burning stoves, the stones generally wear down a little more evenly, but even so, the stones closest to the flame can break down more quickly[42].

Replace discarded stones with new ones suitable for saunas - only use stones recommended for saunas (usually igneous rocks such as peridotite or olivine-diabase)[43]. Never replace with random landscaping stones or river stones, as they can explode when heated. Before replacing the stones, rinse the good stones to remove any dust[44]. Then stack the stones loosely around the heating elements or inside the stove again, depending on the design. The idea is to leave spaces for air to circulate between the stones[44]. Don't stack them too high, or the heater will have trouble breathing. Also, avoid stacking stones higher than the recommended level - completely covering the heating elements, but without overflowing, is generally the rule. Once a year is a guideline for maintaining the stones; if you use the sauna very often (daily, for example), consider checking the stones more often and, on the other hand, if you rarely use the sauna, the stones can last for many years. Just watch out for these signs (brittle pieces or reduced performance) as an indication to take action.

Infrared sauna maintenance: If your sauna is an infrared model or has infrared panels, maintenance is a little different. There are no stones or high humidity to worry about, but you should keep the infrared heating panels clean by wiping them (when they are cold) with a soft, slightly damp cloth to remove dust. Make sure that the electrical connections to each panel remain secure and check that each infrared panel is working (emitting heat evenly)[45] - if a panel fails, replace it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Infrared heaters generally last a long time, but it is advisable to check the exposed wiring or the control system annually for problems.

In all cases, keep an eye out for anything unusual when operating the heater. Strange noises, a burning smell or the activation of safety devices should be investigated immediately. By keeping the heater and stones in good condition, your sauna will heat up efficiently and safely, providing the gentle heat and steam (in traditional saunas) that make the experience so enjoyable[46].

Care of sauna fittings and accessories

Your sauna is not just walls and a heater - it includes benches, doors, vents and accessories that also benefit from maintenance:

Seats and backrests: they support the weight of the users and undergo constant heating and cooling cycles. Inspect the seats regularly for signs of wear or fragility. Look for cracks in the wood or any wobble in the joints. At least once a year, check the screws or fixings that hold the seats and supports together[47]. Wood can expand and contract in the heat, which can loosen the hardware over time. Tighten any loose bolts or nuts to keep the seats firm and squeak-free[47]. If a seat board starts to crack or splinter, sand it smooth or replace it if necessary to avoid injury (sitting on a splinter is no fun). Also, as mentioned, sanding and treating the benches with a suitable oil will rejuvenate their appearance and help repel moisture and dirt in the future.
Door maintenance: Sauna doors, usually made of wood and glass, can shift or swell slightly with humidity. If you notice that your sauna door is jamming or difficult to close, identify where it touches the frame. You can sand down the high points or edges a little for a smoother fit[48]. If the door tends to open on its own or doesn't close properly, check the alignment of the latch/hinge - sometimes adjusting the hinge or adding a thin washer/shim can improve closing[49]. Tighten the door's loose hinges (if the screws are damaged in the wood, you may need to use slightly larger screws or inserts)[50]. A well-fitting door not only keeps the heat in during use, but also closes tightly when not in use (preventing pets or children from accidentally entering and keeping the interior clean). If your door has a window, make sure the glass is securely fixed in the frame and clean it with a glass cleaner when necessary (only when the sauna is cold).
Sliding fans: Many saunas have a wooden sliding fan. Over time, these can become warped or debris can make them difficult to slide. If a fan gets stuck, you can tighten the fixing screws slightly to give more clearance or lightly sand the edges of the sliding part to reduce friction[51]. Make sure you can open and close the fans easily; if not, fix the problem so that ventilation is not neglected due to a stubborn fan.
Buckets, ladles and other accessories: Empty the water bucket after each sauna session - don't leave water in it for long periods, as this can promote mold or even damage the wood of a wooden bucket. Dry the bucket and ladle thoroughly (turn them upside down to drain). Clean the sauna bucket and ladle regularly - a quick rinse and wipe down with a cloth will suffice most days, and occasionally use mild soapy water to wash and rinse them thoroughly[52]. Wooden buckets can be a little more delicate, so avoid harsh chemicals. If you have a sauna brush or scrubber (for skin or cleaning), keep them clean and dry between uses. Thermometers and hygrometers should be checked for accuracy (an incorrect reading can lead to the sauna overheating or too much steam being introduced without you realizing it). Dusting is usually enough; if they fog up or stop working, replace them.
Lighting: If your sauna has a light fixture, make sure that the bulb or LED is suitable for high temperatures. Occasionally check the light cover (usually a glass or plastic dome) - clean out any dead insects or dust inside (with the power off). If the light burns out, replace it immediately (you usually need bulbs suitable for saunas). And make sure that the lamp's seal (such as a gasket that prevents steam from entering the electrical parts) is still in good condition.
Floor and drains: If your sauna floor is made of wooden planks, clean it from time to time - lift them up and sweep or mop the floor. If it's a concrete or tiled floor, keep it mopped and check that any drains aren't clogged. A siphon can emit odors if it is dry, so pour water into it occasionally (when the sauna is not in use) or make sure that the water in the siphon has not evaporated.
Textiles: Towels, bathrobes and sauna mats are worth mentioning. Wash them regularly and use fragrance-free detergents - the strong smell of detergent or fabric softener can linger in a small, hot sauna, and some people are sensitive to it[53]. Using antibacterial or quick-drying fabrics for sauna textiles is a good idea[7]. For any fabric mats on the floor, make sure they are completely dry after use (hang them up) and clean of any dirt. Given the high humidity, consider PVC or rubber-based mats carefully - if water gets underneath, it can promote the appearance of invisible mold; wooden or simply fabric mats that breathe are preferable.

By paying attention to these small details, you ensure that every part of your sauna is safe and comfortable. A broken thermometer or an unstable seat may not seem critical, but quickly repairing these little things means that your sauna is always ready and enjoyable to use. In addition, a well-maintained door, ventilation and fittings enhance the overall longevity of the sauna.

Outdoor Sauna Cube 125 - Saunamo
Saunamo Cube from a recent client rooftop installation

Considerations for outdoor saunas

If your sauna is outdoors (a freestanding sauna cabin or a barrel sauna in your garden, for example), there are a few extra maintenance aspects to consider. Outdoor saunas are exposed to the weather all year round, so in addition to the interior, it's important to protect and check the exterior structure.

Outdoor saunas are subject to sun, rain and temperature variations, so maintain the exterior wood and roof to protect your investment.

Exterior wood and weather protection: Most outdoor saunas are made of durable wood (cedar, spruce, pine, etc.) that can withstand outdoor conditions, but UV radiation and humidity will still cause aging over time. To preserve the exterior appearance, you can choose to stain or oil the exterior wood. This is different from interior maintenance: you can paint or varnish the exterior of a sauna (using a weatherproof varnish or paint) if you like, since you are not directly heating those exterior surfaces. A popular choice is a varnish with UV protection - this will reduce the ageing of the wood due to exposure to the sun[54]. Always use a varnish or oil suitable for outdoors and, if possible, one that lets the wood breathe (many exterior wood stains are breathable). If you prefer the wood to age naturally to a silvery gray tone (common in cedar), that's fine too, but you must make sure the wood is clean. At least once or twice a year, wash the outside of the sauna to remove dirt, pollen or algae. You can simply use a garden hose or, if the dirt is more resistant, a high-pressure washer on the low setting can be used on the exterior walls[55]. Be careful - high pressure can damage wood fibers or caulking. If you see any signs of mold or algae on the exterior, scrub them with a brush and a mild wood cleaner (just as you would with a deck). Keeping the exterior walls clean and coated (with paint or oil) will prevent rot and keep the sauna looking good in your garden.

Roof and foundation: Check the roof of your outdoor sauna periodically. Remove leaves, pine needles or debris that may accumulate, especially in the gutters (if there are any) or around any chimneys. Make sure the roofing material (tiles, metal, etc.) is intact - a leaking roof can let in water that spoils the interior of the sauna. In snowy climates, clear heavy snow from the roof to reduce pressure on the structure. For the foundation or base, make sure that water drains away from the sauna. Puddles or poor drainage around the base can lead to moisture seeping into the foundation or lower logs. If your sauna is on a deck or sidewalk, it's a good idea to take an annual look underneath to check for excess moisture or insect activity.

Chimney and stove (for outdoor wood-burning saunas): In addition to the internal maintenance of the stove mentioned above, the chimney of an outdoor wood-burning sauna is totally exposed and can rust or be damaged by the wind. Inspect the chimney pipe for rust, especially at the joints, and repaint with heat-resistant paint if necessary. Make sure the chimney cap is securely fastened (storms can loosen it). Also, be careful with nearby trees - keep the branches well trimmed to avoid any risk of fire from sparks and to prevent branches from hitting the chimney or roof.

Pest prevention: An outdoor sauna can be attractive to small animals (in the off-season or when it's not in use). Rats, insects or spiders may try to make it their home. To avoid this, keep the door closed when not in use and consider using mesh screens on all ventilation openings (without blocking the airflow) to keep rodents out. Cedar and heat naturally repel many insects, but if you have a problem with wasps or ants in your area, check corners and under benches occasionally for signs of infestation. Set traps or use natural repellents if necessary.

Impact of climate (Southern Europe vs. Northern Europe): Saunas can be enjoyed throughout Europe, but different climates present different challenges. In hot, sunny southern Europe, the intense sun can quickly dry out and fade exterior wood - hence the importance of a varnish with UV protection and perhaps placing your sauna in a shady spot. Ambient heat can mean that the inside of your sauna dries out more quickly (an advantage for mold prevention), but it can also mean higher ambient humidity in some coastal areas - always ventilate well. If you live in a region with hard water, be careful when pouring water over the stones; hard water can leave mineral deposits (limescale) on the heater elements and on the stones. Over time, this limescale can reduce the efficiency of the heater. Using filtered or soft water for loyly (steam) or cleaning can mitigate this. If there is a build-up of limescale, a mild acid such as vinegar can help dissolve it, or it may be necessary to sand it down, as recommended in some guides[56]. In colder northern climates, the main concerns are freezing (don't leave water in buckets or pipes that could freeze and burst) and making sure the sauna is weatherproof against rain and snow. In addition, drastic changes in temperature can cause the wood to contract/expand more, so keep an eye on the screws and joints in the seats to check if they are loose.

Indoor vs. outdoor: if your sauna is indoor, don't worry about the climate, but pay attention to the room in which it is located - for example, a basement sauna should have a vapor barrier and adequate ventilation to the outside to prevent moisture damage to the house. Many maintenance steps are similar (cleaning, drying, etc.), but the exterior of an indoor sauna (usually panels) may also need to be cleaned occasionally. And never store paints, chemicals or objects on top of an indoor sauna heater or stove - it's easy for an indoor sauna to become a storage cupboard when not in use, which is a safety hazard.

Special tips for sauna owners in warmer climates

If you live in a warm Mediterranean climate or anywhere in southern Europe, here are some extra tips to ensure that your sauna remains a pleasure and not a burden:

Regular ventilation during periods of inactivity: in hot climates, you may not use the sauna as much during the summer months. Don't leave it closed for too long. From time to time, open the door and vents to ventilate or even warm it up briefly, just to eliminate any moisture that has got in. This prevents a musty smell from developing inside.
Sun protection: as mentioned, the sun can be aggressive towards wood. Consider a shade or cover for your sauna during the hottest part of the day (even a removable solar sail or planting a tree nearby can help protect it). This will also prevent the sauna from overheating inside when not in use. Some owners of barrel saunas in sunny areas even put a reflective cover over the sauna when not in use to reduce exposure to UV rays - this is optional, but can help extend the life of the exterior.
Check metal components for corrosion: Near coastal areas with salty air, metal parts (hinges, handles, screws and even the heater's outer casing, if it's not stainless steel) can corrode more quickly. Inspect them periodically. A light coat of machine oil on the hinges or the occasional replacement of fittings with stainless steel equivalents can prevent headaches. Many quality saunas come with stainless fittings, but it's worth checking.
Fire safety in dry areas: If you use a wood-burning sauna in an area prone to drought or forest fires, be very careful with ashes and embers. Always use a spark arrester on the chimney and dispose of ashes in a metal container away from combustible materials. In some places, it may even be regulated when you can use wood fires - always follow local guidelines.

By adapting to the climate and local conditions, you'll ensure that your sauna stays in top condition. Whether it's withstanding the Nordic snow or the Iberian sun, a well-maintained sauna will reward you with decades of relaxation.

Conclusion

A sauna is an investment in well-being and, like any investment, it's worth looking after. With regular maintenance - cleaning the surfaces, drying after use, periodic deep cleaning and looking after the heater and stones - your sauna will remain safe, clean and pleasant for many years to come. Proper maintenance not only extends the life of your sauna, but also ensures that every sauna bath is as refreshing and hygienic as it should be[57]. In the spirit of Finnish sauna culture, a clean and well-maintained sauna reflects respect for the sauna and those who use it. By following the guidelines above, you'll avoid common problems such as musty smells, warped wood or faulty heaters. Instead, you'll have a sauna that's always ready to provide you with the perfect löyly and relaxation whenever you need it.

Hyviä löylyjä! (Enjoy your sauna!)

Sources:

Finnish Sauna Builders - "Sauna Maintenance Tips: Essential Guidelines for Longevity." Practical tips on cleaning routines, protecting wood, and maintaining heaters[58][59].
Finnleo Sauna - "Sauna Care and Maintenance." Official Finnish sauna company guidelines emphasizing not treating interior wood, quick after-use cleaning, and proper drying[15][60].
Martat (Finnish Home Society) - "Saunan pesu." Traditional Finnish cleaning instructions, recommending warm water scrubbing, avoiding chlorine cleaners, and checking sauna stones annually[61][62].
My Sauna World - "Extend Your Outdoor Sauna's Life." Tips focused on outdoor barrel saunas, including using towels, natural cleaning solutions, mold treatment, and exterior care like UV protection[63][64].
Thermory - "Useful tips for sauna care and maintenance." Advice on treating sauna wood with breathable preservatives, gentle cleaning (no pressure washing), and tightening bench screws for longevity[26][25].

[1] [7] [12] [28] [ 29] [30] [35] [36] [45] [ 46] [52] [ 53] [57] [ 58] [59] Sauna Maintenance Tips: Essential Guidelines for Longevity - Finnish Sauna Builders